After pizza and beer, we got down to the business of loading our backpacks for two days at Granite Park Chalet, a backcountry lodge in Glacier National Park. We packed what we needed and a few luxury items (beer, tequila, rum) to make our stay more enjoyable. We had planned for an early start so we got to bed early.
While Erv and I gorged ourselves to power up for the long day ahead, Paul had his usual light breakfast and we departed for East Glacier to drop our luggage and catch the shuttle up to Logan Pass. Our timing was perfect and with just our overnight packs on the shuttle, no excess baggage, the excitement to get out on the trail was palpable. We didn't forget to enjoy the sweeping views under a slate grey sky while we traveled along Going-to-the-Sun Road. Ironic since there would be no sun.
Upon disembarking the shuttle, we shouldered our packs and off we went along the Highline trail. Considering this was the first time Erv had ever carried more than a day-pack in his nearly 60 years, we made incredible time keeping a 2 mph pace over 7.6 miles (http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=358010). Despite the cold, occasionally drizzly weather, the views were very nice and the walk enjoyable, but the sight of the chalet with a wisp of smoke emanating from its chimney was welcomed by all. We entered the warm communal area, "checked in" and were escorted to our luxurious suite which consisted of log walls, bunk beds and a table. There's a reason they call it "a view with a room" rather than vice-versa.
We stripped off our hiking clothes, enjoyed the feel of some cotton on our skin (a no-no unless you're warm, dry and sheltered in the backcountry) and then went to sit by the woodburning stove. We took some photos and generally lounged around for the rest of the evening.
View from our room
In the morning, we awakened to 30 degrees under grey skies again, but with some snow thrown in for good measure. Paul and I had planned a jaunt up to the Glacier overlook, but decided to wait out the weather. By noon, it became apparent that we wouldn't be seeing any sun today, so despite the low-lying clouds and blowing snow that would probably obscure our view, we went hiking. Erv decided (wisely) to enjoy the chalet and nurse his blister rather than aggravate it since we had another 7.6 miles ahead of us tomorrow. Paul and I climbed through the snow and clouds not more than a mile from a grizzly and her 3 cubs. Not far from the overlook, we encountered a companion on the trail.
On our return, we were pelted with snow, but soon enough we were within the warm confines of the chalet. We spent the evening playing Hold-Em for Skittles and bragging right as well as chatting with our new friends Kenneth (or was it Craig?) and Suzie.
Ah yes, another day in the backcountry with no heat, grey skies, a stiff breeze and light snow - must be September in Montana.
Our departure was bittersweet knowing that we had killer views and a hot, fresh meal awaiting us at the end of Swiftcurrent trail, but we were leaving the beauty of Granite Park Chalet behind. We had great views of the chalet and its gorgeous setting as we climbed to Swiftcurrent pass and excellent views of Swifcurrent valley from the saddle.
The hard part was over and we now had just 2400 feet of elevation loss and about 6.5 miles of cruisng along wildflowers, waterfalls and alpine lakes. I lost my lens cap along the way so I managed to get an extra couple mile jog as I retraced my steps. Despite not finding the cap, I did nearly run into the broad side of a moose, but didn't have my camera with me to document it. Soon we were within the vicinity of Many Glacier Hotel and in just under an eternity of walking on the side of the road, we were sitting down in the lounge for burgers and beer. Cheers to all who survived the trip!
Granite Park Chalet (upper right)
We drove to our lodging in East Glacier and I was lucky enough to enjoy the first shower - heaven! We then chowed down at Serrano's and enjoyed their excellent version of Mexican cuisine. Back at the Timber Frame Cottage, we put our feet up, watched a movie, drank and enjoyed cleanliness and climate control.
The rest of our days in Glacier were blessed with beautiful weather. Two-Medicine Valley was the destination for the day because of it's proximity to our lodging and access to a few short hikes since we wanted to take it easy after a few big hiking days. Despite our attempt to keep the mileage down, we still logged upwards of 6 miles. We saw some nice pond-filled meadows, a few waterfalls and the oddest clouds I've ever seen.
With our day of "rest" complete, we drove north to St. Mary's and the eastern side of Going-to-the-Sun Road to see the lakes and waterfalls nearby. Before we knew it, we'd hiked to 3 waterfalls, countless streams and cruised 8 miles. We retired fairly early that evening knowing that we had a big day and early departure ahead of us.
St. Mary's Falls
Our return to Many Glacier Valley was rewarded with beautiful early morning views across Swiftcurrent Lake. After a few photos we boarded the hikers' shuttle across Swiftcurrent Lake to Lake Josephine. Once we were there, we shuttled across Lake Josephine and then began our shoreline hike to Grinnell Lake. Grinnell Lake was mirror-like, reflecting perfectly the picturesque mountains surrounding it. The water was extremely clear (like most lakes in Glacier), the submerged stones were very colorful and since were the first to reach the lake that day, it was truly an idyllic setting. Paul and I then split with Erv to depart on the steep hike to Upper Grinnell lake. Sadly, Erv deferred since he was still plagued with a blister problem. Not sadly, he returned to the Many Glacier Hotel and enjoyed a cool day with bright sunshine gazing out to this view.
Swiftcurrent Lake (Erv's view)
Grinnell Lake
Upper Grinnell Lake
Paul and I started at a quick pace and we were soon shedding layers as we climbed above treeline with the brilliant sunshine blazing. At about the same time we were rewarded with aerial views of turquoise Grinnell Lake. We eventually climbed into the spectacular rock amphitheater containing iceberg-filled upper Grinnell Lake. Lunch was spent gazing across the icebergs to the steep rock walls, glaciers and waterfalls behind. It was a difficult place to leave, but we made good enough time on the way down to catch the early shuttle and have a few drinks with Erv for happy hour. We had dinner at the most unique Cattle Baron Supper Club, the pride of Babb, MT and the supposed home of Montana's best steak. Suffice it to say that I enjoy steaks off of my own grill of a much higher quality. Fortunately, I had enough beer to nearly forget that I even had a steak for dinner.
The next morning was foggy, inside our heads, not outside the cottage, but we still managed an efficient departure to Kalispell. We traveled north to St. Mary and then through Glacier via Going-to-the-Sun Road, into West Glacier and then to Kalispell stopping frequently for short hikes and pictures at scenic areas. In Kalispell we partook of some traditional Montana fare at the Mongolian barbeque and then lounged around in the hotel room thinking, but not talking about the inevitable return home.
Avalanche Gorge and Creek
We said our goodbyes early the next morning since the flight to Cincinnati departed at 7, but I went back to sleep for awhile before my drive to Missoula and then return to Kauai. Leaving each other's company we were sad, but like last year, thankful for the experiences and excited about next year's trip! Do I hear Yellowstone?
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