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Ireland post (finally)
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Saturday, August 21, 2010

Fighting the Crowds for Views in Rocky Mountain and Just Like Old Times with Mike and Kaya

After a two and a half-year hiatus from traveling to Colorado, we decided it had been far too long. Considering Mike and Kaya were on the way, we figured it would be a perfect opportunity to see them too. I absolutely dread overnight flights so we decided to take the afternoon flight to Portland, stay the night and then continue on to Denver, especially since the two flights were cheaper than a multi-destination itinerary. Maddie fought the good fight against sleep on the flight, but eventually lost.


Upon deplaning in Denver the following day we drove to Boulder, but not before stopping at the “pharmacy” for some “medicine”. Six bags of Cheetos, 3 pizzas, a case of Coke and 4 hours later we had covered the 40 minute drive to Boulder.



Considering our status as lowlanders, we decided not to undertake too much on our first hike and drove to Indian Peaks Wilderness for the hike to Blue Lake. Maddie was great and spent quite a bit of time hiking once we fought off the hordes and actually got onto the trail. I guess when you visit a town known as an outdoor Mecca on July 4th weekend, you can’t exactly expect to have the trails to yourself.  The food in Boulder was excellent and the beer selection...well, this is Colorado, you see and what takes up an entire grocery store cooler in Hawaii is relegated to the "cheap college-kid beer section".  There were craft beers as far as the eye could see and angels were singing.  Needless to say, I was thrilled and the girls had to drag me out of the store after half an hour.


Our next adventure near Boulder started above 10,000 feet so I was a bit slower with Maddie on my back than I would have liked. She helped us out by hiking a fair amount on her own and slowing us down when she did so that my lungs didn’t explode. Crystal skies, sunshine and cool temperatures complemented the already beautiful scenery at the alpine lakes and waterfalls.


After leaving Boulder, we drove to Estes Park, affectionately known by us as “Gatlinburg of the Rockies”. To anyone that’s been to Gatlinburg, no further explanation is necessary. On our way there, in an effort to escape the crowds, we visited one of the more remote areas of the park only to be greeted by a full parking lot and rangers directing traffic. The Wild Basin trail was a pretty streamside walk with some nice waterfall views including Copeland, Calypso and Ouzel. We retreated to the luxurious Holiday Inn at Estes Park for the discount rate of only $200 per night. Well worth the price to stay within “Gatlinburg of the Rockies” in a hotel updated about the year I was born. We did have some nice meals including some wild game selections.


Eager to see more people (I mean sights) we got an early start to grab one of the quickly-filled parking spots at Bear Lake trailhead. Known as one of the most beautiful and popular areas of Rocky Mountain National Park, it was bound to be crowded. It was quite crowded, but after traversing about 2 miles of trail, the people started to disappear and we found ourselves in a much more peaceful setting. We covered about 9 miles, many alpine lakes including Bear, Nymph, Emerald, Haiyaha and several waterfalls. Maddie covered about 3 miles on her own; not a small undertaking for a little hiker.



To change the pace from hiking, we took a boat ride on Estes Lake, though it did get cut short by thunder. Maddie’s a natural on the water.





After caffeination, we went for a drive the following morning through the park along Trail Ridge Road to catch some views and make our way over to the west side of the park. Trail Ridge Road is the highest continuous highway in the United States and offers some spectacular views of peaks and alpine lakes. Maddie was feeling a little under the weather so frequent whining often interrupted our attempts at short walks or viewing the scenery. She forgot her ailments when we got the opportunity to see several elk feeding nearby.


After arriving on the west side of RMNP and continuing on to Winter Park, we met up with Joe and Jennifer “Johnson” our former neighbors in Maryville, TN. It was great to see them again and we got a chance to check out their home that they’re building. The home will definitely be spectacular when complete. The following day I managed a breathless mountain bike ride on the trails of Winter Park. Afterward, we met with the Johnson family for lunch to catch up on the past few years.

From Winter Park we continued on to Leadville to visit our friends John and Carolyn. I worked with John during medical school when he was kind enough to host me for a month during a family practice rotation. They’re really fun, active people that we’ve kept in touch with for going on 10 years now – hard to believe it’s been that long.

Maddie got her first taste of whitewater rafting on the Arkansas River where she successfully ran all the rapids while avoiding all strainers, holes and undercut rocks. She’s got a little to learn though, since she was a upset when she got wet. She spent as much time worrying about her wet feet as she did enjoying the ride.

We drove from Leadville to catch our afternoon flight from Denver to Portland. All of us were excited to see Mike and Kaya and we grabbed a late dinner along with some beers at McMennamins. Also, Mike had the foresight to grab an excellent growler from Plew’s Brews, which we enjoyed together.

The following morning we drove to the Columbia River Gorge where Emily and I realized that we had hiked many of the trails, but were happy to share the experience with Maddie.  That night, Mike prepared some stellar smoked ribs and brisket.




Maddie feeding the goats along the "Fruit Loop"

We punctuated our visit with a night of many, many high end craft beers, inane conversation and a conference call with Joe, Chelsae, Nate and Nicole who were sharing a hotel room in San Francisco at the start of their Napa trip. While we weren’t physically together, it felt just like old times. A fitting end to a great trip.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Ahhhhh....Nature

Saturday's line to get into Rocky Mtn. NP.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Maddie in Colorado

One of the rare times tv is good

Friday, July 2, 2010

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Lovin' it on Lanai

A very different vacation for us - 5 star hotel rooms, room service, tipping the concierge, beaches, swimming pools and only a few mountains thrown in just to keep me satisfied. Were we disappointed? Hell no, we want to go back next week!

Having heard about the luxurious 4 Seasons resort on Lanai and the outrageous Kama'aina (Hawaii resident) discounts, Em planned the trip with little hesitation on short notice. We'd kind of soured on traveling for awhile with our recent trips to Cincinnati being plagued with illness. What we needed now was a nice relaxing trip without too much effort or travel time and Lanai was a perfect choice.

Arriving at the Lanai City airport, we were greeted by porters who handled our luggage and transported us to Manele Bay. Upon reaching the doorstep, all three of us were addressed by name and given cool towels to refresh. Maddie was given her "friendly Honu" (turtle) by the bellhop and a few minutes later we were within the confines of the nicest hotel room we'd ever been in enjoying the insanely expensive room service. We set up Maddie's tent in the incredibly spacious bathrooms and soon after we were dozing off on the 6,000,000 thread count sheets.

In the morning we realized that "insanely expensive" was a trend we should get accustomed to as we perused the breakfast menu. Thankfully, the quality of all insanely expensive items was excellent and Maddie got to eat insanely expensive items for free. After filling our bellies, we walked down to Hulopo'e bay for swimming and snorkeling which was average, but otherwise above average for the guys that set up our umbrella, chair and icewater with lemon right on the beach. Not a bad way to live for a couple days. At happy hour we enjoyed half-price appetizers and drinks which was by far the greatest deal going at the Four Seasons. Walking to the beach afterward was a wobbly experience for all except Maddie, but I did get some cool pictures along the way.















Our Jeep Wrangler was waiting for us the following morning so we could explore some of the massive network of 4x4 roads snaking across the island. Sadly and annoyingly, the Dollar Rental agreement would not allow us to take our vehicle along the Munro Trail, easily the most scenic trail on the island. Curiously, they didn't mention this when we reserved the car. In any case, we cruised down to Shipwreck beach along the north shore of the island and did a little off road driving there. Views to Molokai and Maui were excellent and Maddie had a good time climbing and hiking.








While we were out having fun, our bags were being transferred to the Lodge at Koele, our next Four Seasons lodging nestled above Lanai City where it's cooler, moister and more mountainous. We settled in and put Maddie down for a nap, then I went out for a mountain-bike ride while Em relaxed. I had a great time and some great views of Ho'okio gulch as chronicled in a previous mobile post.

That evening we watched sunset at Garden of the Gods, a field of uniquely shaped rocks along a deserted 4x4 road, then retreated to the Lodge for some rustic haute cuisine. The Lodge was totally my style with rustic decor, enormous stone fireplaces and a mountain atmosphere.

After several days of running around, we took advantage of the cloudy weather to hang around the Lodge, check out the stables so Maddie could see the horses and just unwind.  At happy hour, the staff had lit the firepits behind the lodge so we spent a few hours enjoying some beverage and the heat of the fire in the cool misty atmosphere above Lanai city.

In the morning, we took the shuttle down to Manele Bay to enjoy the pool with Maddie again. She's quite the princess, but everyone knows how baggy her eyes get when she's working so hard all day long.



Cucumbers from the poolboy to soothe weary, puffy eyes


After Maddie had her spa treatment we shuttled back to the Lodge and I departed on a rather adventurous mountain bike ride along the Munro trail to the summit of Lanaihale, the highest point on Lanai.  Gaining about 1500 feet and then dropping down the other side to below Lanai City, it was a pretty solid ride with nice views.  Dollar rental agreement be damned, I was going to take that trail one way or another.  Later we had a reasonably priced (remarkable in that fact), delicious meal in Lanai city at Pele's Other Garden.
The next day - another day of relaxation and pool fun for Maddie.  After splashing around for hours and wearing herself out, we returned to the Lodge, Maddie napped, Em read and I went out for another nice deserted mountain bike ride.  In the evening we wandered the property, Maddie scared the koi in the lake and I shot some decent sunset pictures.











In the morning we arose refreshed and ready to head home after an enjoyable week, I'd say a nearly perfect, but different vacation.  Then all our dreams of the perfect vacation were shattered when our flight was delayed.  This happened on Molokai too, where, like Lanai, there is ABSOLUTELY nothing to do at the airport.  Considering our midday, short flight, not a big deal.  In any case, we made it home fine, Maddie was excellent on the short flights and that was the official start of our travel season.  Colorado and Oregon in July, Tennessee and Cincy in August, Yellowstone (for me) in Sept., Em somewhere else with the girls in October and Nepal at the end of October into November and hopefully Cincy over the holidays.  No wonder we don't travel in the spring.